In Brugge

Sorry I didn't get these up earlier. We went to Brugge for a couple of days last week. Here are some highlights of a very beautiful town.  

The belfry tower off the town plaza. You can climb to the top for a small fee, but I didn't.

Bruges square as seen from a cafe. Great cafes are all about.

Mary and Kris enjoying an espresso...or was it a beer and wine?

Behind the Camera

Some extra photos for my sister who says I don't include enough people in my pictures. 

Author and wife in Brussels

Wife, author and son in Leuven

A Belgian Windmill

Most people would probably associate windmills with the Netherlands.  However, many windmills are found in Belgium because of the proximity to the North Sea coast. 

Mechanism to direct the windmill into the wind. 

Mary and Kevin pick out some peaches and plums at a roadside stand near the windmill. 

Day Trip to Brussels

Brussels is the capital of Belgium and also the capital of the European Union (EU). It is only 20 minutes from Leuven.

Brussels city hall

Kris and her sister Mary in the Grand Platz

World's first Galleria of shops

Brussels' most famous resident - The Manneken Pis.  He is the result of Belgium's reputation as a center for great beers. I understand they have a whole collection of costumes including an Elvis costume to wear on his birthday. 

Like father, like son. Two great beers brewed in Belgium - Julius, a wheat beer, and Chimay, a Trappist brewed beer from a monastery in Hainaut, Belgium. 

To Market, To Market...again.

We like to eat, so here are more market photos. 

One aisle of fruit, veggies and flowers

Looking out over the square. I couldn't get enough elevation to show all the stalls.

Our favorite butchers.

Row upon rows of rotisserie chicken for sale

Belgian version of the Cancan.

Horst Castle

Since it is Belgium National day, we decided to visit a castle. Horst Castle was built in the mid 14th century. It had many owners over the centuries. Maria-Anna van den Tympel died in 1658 as the last resident/owner. 

Horst Castle from the tower side

From the couryard-side 

Kris and Kevin on the castle bridge

Lakeside view

A Visit from my son, Kevin

Kevin and Frank (my brother-in-law) decide where to have dinner.

La Parma Restaurant in Leuven

Mussels and Frites

hhhhh

Evening in Leuven

21 July National Belgium Independence Day

Today is the anniversary of the date in 1831 that Leopold I swore allegiance to the constitution as the first King of the Belgians and separated from the Netherlands. The day is celebrated much as we do on our Independence Day; parades, military displays, fireworks, grilling and beer. 

Google Article on National Day

T.V. Sports in Europe

In the two weeks I have been in Belgium, I've been able to view three of the top European sporting events; The World Cup, The Tour and The Open. Notice that none of the specific sports are mentioned, but everyone knows what they are speaking about. 
The World Cup. This is THE sport in Europe. They call it futball. We Americans see it as a 2nd rate sport of soccer. Even my American English spell checker wanted to correct futball to fur ball. Go figure. 
We watched an exciting Cup primarily on Belgium TV stations. I can't comment on the outcome, but I wasn't rooting for Germany. The announcers probably did a good job. I couldn't understand them, but that was due to my poor language skills. I can't understand the Brits either. I do like the fact that they don't stop the game action for a commercial every three minutes like we do in the States. 
The Tour, The Tour de France, is going on as I write. Everyone rides a bike in Europe so they can understand the sport. Ever since I gave up the third wheel I haven't been that interested in bicycling. Bontrager's Jasper Stuyven is the new star of Belgium cyclists. Cycling stars are even bigger than the Red Devils of futball fame. I'll take the butcher in the market's word for it. His steaks have been  sooo good. 
That brings us to The Open. Americans call it the British Open to distinguish it from the US Golf Open, the Scotish Open or the Illinois Open. As far as the Brits see it, there is only one Open. This event must be viewed on BBC. Luckily I know golf since I can't understand the Brit announcers. 
Oh well. The Bears report to camp in 6 days. You won't see anything about it on Belgium TV. 
Anyway, this has been all in fun. I'm actually enjoying Euro sports. 

Sports

A Tour of the Ambleve Part I

I'm a little delayed in writing posts. I will try to catch up over the next couple of days.
On Saturday, 12 July (notice the European format), we took a road trip into the Ardennes and down the Ambleve river. Those of you with some knowledge of military history may recall that the Germans invaded Western Europe both in WWI + WWII through this area. 

The area is very beautiful and rustic, dotted with small but picturesque towns.  All along the way we saw storybook buildings.
Here are a few.

A Visit to the Museum Leuven

(WARNING: This post contains a history lesson)
Last week, we went to tour the M - Museum Leuven know as the M.  A special exhibit was on display titled, "Ravaged, Art and Culture in Times of Conflict".  This exhibit was in commemoration of the 100th year after the First World War. 

Belgium was on the front lines of the War having been the first nation attacked by Germany.  Belgium proved very frustrating to the Germans and delayed their advance by over a month. After Leuven was taken, the Germans claimed that Belgium sharpshooters were active in the city. The German's response was to kill hundreds of civilians in retaliation and burn many parts of the city including the University Library and over 1000 homes. 

This exhibit takes the fire in Leuven as the starting point to create a larger picture.  Throughout the centuries there have been countless examples of conflicts in which cultural heritage has been a target. Ravaged takes five themes to show how artists depicted the havoc and plundering; the ravaged city, the ruins, deliberate destruction, propaganda and art as war booty.

I did not take any photos in the exhibit, but I was very moved by the destruction.  The exhibit takes a historical event into the present by featuring modern-day Beruit as an example of havoc and plundering. 

Rain, Rain, Go Away.

Historical weather data indicates that Belgium has 17 days of rain during the average July. I think we've already had our allotment. 

A smart person once told me, "You can't have enough umbrellas in Belgium. 

Don't Bug Me, Leuven

Totem in Ladeuzeplein, Leuven

In 2005, the Catholic University Leuven celebrated its 575th anniversary and decided to thank the city of Leuven for its hospitality. University officials, being educators, thought, "What is the appropriate gift for 575 years? It is not 25th because that is Silver. It's not 50th since that is Gold. It's not even 90th because that is Engraved Marble. What's left? How about a beetle?"
Anyway, I'm sure the conversation went something like that. 
They commissioned a renown artist, Jan Fabre, to create a sculpture. He called it a Totem as a focal point and a symbolic art piece. The Thai Jewel Beetle is placed on a steel needle 75 feet above the square. I guess that way it can't be stepped on.
More about the Ladeuzeplein later. 

More Photos at the Beguinage

Interior of the Church

NAVE

WALKING THROUGH THE STREETS IN THE RAIN

Door Carving at the Beguinages of Leuven

A small wooden carving is located on the entrance door to the Sint-Jan-de-Doperkerk church in the Beguinage of Leuven.  If you look closely you will see that it is of a Madonna and child with the child at the mother's breast. This is a very early carving since after the 14th century, the Roman church did not allow such explicit depictions of the Madonna and child.

The Beguines of Leuven

During the 12th century in Europe, towns were being established as populations concentrated on commerce and industry instead of sustenance.The period of "beginae indisciplinatae": women inspired by the mystical movement of the 12th century, retired from the world. During this period, these women formed small groups, to create a more stimulating atmosphere for a religious life. They did not want to live contemplative lives in the desert, but among other women near a church or monastery. 

Sint-Jan-de-Doperkerk Church in the Beguinage of Leuven

Beguines did not make perpetual vows of chastity, poverty and obedience, as classical monks and nuns did. Their promises were only temporal and poverty was not necessary: a beguine had her own possessions and her own income. She only promised celibacy and obedience as long as she remained in the beguinage. She was free to leave the convent at any moment, although she mostly had to give up her rights on her house in the beguinage upon leaving. The women created small towns near rivers. The Beguinage of Leuven, at one time, had nearly 300 members. 

Street in the Beguinage of Leuven

River running through the Beguinage. Water was needed for drinking, cooking and washing.
For more info about Beguinages, go to
http://www.cns.bu.edu/~satra/kaatvds/leuvenhistory.htm 

World Cup 2014 - Go Red Devils!

We went to the Oudte Markt to watch and cheer for Belgium vs. Argentina. Alas, Argentina won but we had a great time cheering them on...with a few beers. 

Shot of the crowd outside the bar.

Video of the pep band.

Me on one end of the Markt during half.

Looking down the Markt.

Frank Hellwig, my host, enjoying a Stella.

The bartender joined in with the pep band.

"To Market, To Market...'

One of my faithful readers asked if they celebrate the 4th of July in Belgium. Actually, they don't.  They go directly from the 3rd to the 5th, so I did not blog on the 4th.  However, yesterday was market day (Friday). We went to the Oude Markt to visit this oversized farmers' market. It is a combination farmers' market and flee market all in one - very common in Europe, very rare in the USA. 
Following is a photo of the coolest food truck. It sells ready-made quiche.

I'm going to see if I could purchase it. It can be my new career after retirement. 
We wanted to purchase some lamb for dinner, so we went to a butcher stall. It was located as a large food trailer with wonderful meats on display. The Kwaliteitsslagerij Penninckx (Quality Butcher Penninckx) was staffed by two very engaging and english-speaking butchers. The brothers Penninckx were very excited to talk about the World Cup (Belgium plays Saturday evening) and to give kudos to Tim Howard, goalie of the USA team. My sister-in-law Mary Hellwig (in the future referred to as Mary) needed to practice her Dutch so she made the purchase with Kris observing. See photo below:

The brothers travel to markets all around Leuven and sell meats raised on their parent's farm. This is the best of locally sourced meats. By the way, the rack of lamb we had for dinner, prepared by Mary, was buitengewoon (extraordinary). 
We finished our excursion with a lunch at a restaurant right in the market called Pepperocini.  Here we shared some white wine and had a plate of mussels. 

This was one of my goals. Now I've had Belgian beer (lots), fresh waffles from a street vendor, french fries (Pom frites with mayo) and mussels. I will wait until we get to Brussels to sample the many chocolate shops. 

We arrived at the Brussels airport about 8:30 AM local time. We were exhausted from the 8-hour flight, but excited and ready to enjoy Belgium. Mary Hellwig, Kris' sister, picked us up and brought us to her and husband Frank's home in Louvain. 
Mary had a delicious breakfast for us consisting of expresso, pate, bread, cheeses and, of course, Nutella - very European. I wondered where was the Belgian waffles, but was told that waffles were an afternoon snack -maybe later.

After breakfast, Mary took me for a walk to the city center where I met a very intriguing woman. She was an expert on the Bronze Age, but didn't have much to say. I shared a bench with her and told her of the upcoming World Cup match.